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The WV Owner's Manual
Congratulations on the purchase of your Whole Vinyl amplifier from Aria Ltd! This preamplifier is the culmination of 25 years of product development and should provide a lifetime of enjoyment. Please read this manual carefully to assure that your preamplifier is connected properly.
|Designer's Note: I've written over 50 owner's manuals.
Starting with a dozen or more for Infinity speakers in the
late 70's, for each and every Counterpoint product (over 40!),
and for the Aria Audio WT power amps. |Easily 50% of the crap
in an owner's manual is useless anyway. Frankly, I can't work up
much enthusiasm for writing and printing another one which will go out of date quickly anyway. So for the WV
preamp, this is the manual. It's online and unlike a paper
manual, it can't go out of date. I'll add to this manual as
needed so if you need to know something about the WV preamp
and you don't see it here, email me at email@example.com and
I'll email the answer back to you, and add it to this manual.
Table of Contents
The Aria Whole Vinyl Preamplifier Series
The Aria Whole Vinyl Preamplifier Series
What's Included with the WV
Setting It Up
Home Theater Passthrough
Removing the Top Cover
Break in Period
Front Panel Controls
Rear Panel Layout
MC Loading (WV5 and WV9 only)
About the Tubes (general information)
Tube Types You Can Use (links to WV web page in new browser window)
Optional Remote Control
Associated Components (Mains cords, Power Amps, Interconnects)
Spiking the Preamplifier
Specifications (links to WV web page in new browser window)
Included with the WV
There are three models of preamplifiers in the WV series. Refer to the unit's front panel to determine which model you have.
WV5: Full preamplifier with phono stage and line stage
WV11: Line stage-only version (no phono stage).
WV9: Phono stage-only version (no line stage)
In addition, all models
are available in standard build, and premium XL build. Refer
to the WV product page at www.ariaaudio.com/WT.htm
for more details.
These preamplifiers are fully
tubed. The phono stage (not present in WV11 line-only
version) has two phono inputs, one with an internal step-up
transformer suitable for MC cartridges, and one for MM cartridges.
The signal path is 100% tube with two voltage gain stages and
passive RIAA de-emphasis. The line stage is a single
stage differential circuit which provides
symmetrical-balanced input and output. The volume control is a
four-channel design which handles the line stage balanced
input signals (left channel hot and cold, right channel hot and
cold). The high voltage rectifier and regulator are pure tube. The
tube filament supplies are very slow-start to avoid thermal shock
to the tubes. The power transformer is a custom-made design
manufactured by Plitron in Ontario, Canada, and is housed in an
external chassis. There are two circuit boards in the WV's main
chassis: the main board with the tubes rests on a wool felt mat
and is loosely constrained so that it stays in place when
shipping, but is not firmly attached to the chassis. The second
board carries the signal switching relays and is separated from
the main board to isolate the tubes from the relay switching
vibrations. Discrete wires (carbon in the XL, OFC in the standard)
connect the circuit boards and input/out connectors. All
components are of the highest quality and are selected for long
life and exceptional sonics. I've designed plenty of preamps in my
career, this is without a question the
This is a cheap AC Mains cord. It's just in there so no one will complain that they didn't get a mains cord. I didn't want to charge you several hundred dollars for a better cord and then hear complaints about that. Get a good mains cord -- honestly, the WV is very revealing and you'll hear the difference. I like the Silent Source Music Reference power cord, contact me for pricing).
7/64ths Allen Driver ("Hex Key")
Used to remove the top cover.
Loading Plugs for MC Cartridge Loading
If ordered with WV5 or WV9 (does not come with line stage-only WV11).
A Low-Noise 6922 Test Tube
A special 6922 tube which has been selected for low noise has been included with your WV5. Do not use this tube for listening - set it aside in a safe place. It may be used for troubleshooting if noise occurs in one channel of the line stage or phono stage. If you do have a noise problem, email me and I'll provide instructions.
RCA Shorting Pins
A pair of special shorting pins have been included with your WV5 for test purposes. You may insert them into any unused INPUT on the WV5 for storage purposes, or leave them in the bag. Do not lose them as they may be used for troubleshooting noise problems. I will provide instructions if they are needed.
Foam Packing Blocks
When you receive your WV, there will be a white foam shipping block inside the chassis which need to be removed. WV XLs with remote controls will have a second shipping block intended to protect the heavy motor during shipping. Both WVs have a block intended to prevent damage to the motherboard, which is intentionally mounted loosely, from damage when the WV ships. These blocks must be removed before you use your WV, and they must be saved in case you ever need to ship your WV. Refer to the Packing section of this manual for how these blocks are to be used.
Place your WV on a shelf or surface with at least 4 inches (10 cm) of space above it for ventilation. Do not block the vent holes on the underside of the chassis, nor the ones on top. To avoid interference noise do not place the preamp on or near digital components or any components containing power transformers. Place the power supply box at least 24 inches (60 cm) away from the audio chassis. The power supply box does not need ventilation, and location is not critical.
- Connect the power supply box cable to the connector on the rear of the WV audio chassis. Use caution when handling the cable to avoid bending it too sharply at the connector.
- Connect the Mains cord to the WV Power Supply box and into a wall outlet.
- Connect the Motor Power Supply to the connector on the rear of the WV and plug it into a wall outlet (only provided with optional remote control for volume).
- Connect your inputs and outputs to the audio chassis. If you are using a balanced signal in the Line 3 input (WV5 and WV11 only), set the rear panel switch to BAL, otherwise, set it to RCA. On the WV11, Phono 1 and Phono 2 are both line level and can accept the signal from a phono stage.
Home Theater Passthough
Used when your front right and front left speakers are called upon to do extra duty in your two channel stereo system and multichannel home theater system. Connect your home theater processor's left front and right front line level outputs to the left and right HT Inputs on the WV, and your left/right channel power amp to the WV's main outs (as is normal for a stereo system). When the WV is switched off, or in standby, (or the front panel input selector is set to "Theater", the output from your home theater's audio processor passes directly through the WV to the left/right front channel power amp and to the speakers, with no change in signal level (it's a direct connection and the volume control has no effect).
Turn on the Main switch on the power supply chassis and the audio chassis low voltage supplies will slowly power up (soft-start). After a few seconds the front panel lamp will begin to glow red. When the front panel lamp is fully lit, you can take the preamp out of Standby by switching it to Mute or Operate. The lamp will begin to blink while the high voltages stabilize. When the lamp stops blinking and becomes a steady violet the preamp is ready to be used and can be taken out of mute. To prolong tube life, place the WV into Standby when not listening. You can reduce power consumption by turning off the main switch on the power supply box whenever you are away from home. Whenever possible, try to mute the preamp before cycling the Mains switch on the power supply chassis.
Removing the Top Cover
Remove the ten Philips screws (6-32 x 1/4'' 100 degree flathead) from the top with a Philips screwdriver, and the two topmost socket head cap bolts (6-32 x 3/8'' stainless) on the rear panel above the connectors with a 7/64ths allen driver (included). The top cover will pull straight up -- you may need to grab it in the vent holes with a tool or something.
Break in Period
The electronic components in the WV
(including the circuit boards and connecting wires)
are new and need to "hear" at least 200 hours of full-range
audio before they will sound their best. One simple method to
break in the components quickly is to use a CD player set on
"repeat" with a recording of loud music and play it through the WV whenever you are not
listening to the system.
Of course you will want your power amps
turned off when doing this. In fact, if you use your CD player to
break in your phono stage (as I describe below) you will probably
want to completely disconnect your power amps altogether (it's
possible that some transistor power amps might be damaged by
tens of volts of audio applied to their inputs when
Suggested Break-In Procedures
For breaking in the entire WV5 (phono and line stages), disconnect your WV from the power amps,
connect a CD player to the MM input on the preamp, select the MM
input on the front panel, set the volume control to 12 o'
clock, unmute the WV, put a loud music CD into the player, and set the player on "repeat." Note
that the output of the CD player is about 60dB -- 1,000 times -- "louder" than a MM
cartridge so ALWAYS disconnect the CD player from the MM input
before connecting your WV to your power amps.
method can be used with the WV11 line stage by simply using any
line line input on the WV and run the volume control at maximum.
Again, it's best to disconnect your power amp. For WV9 phono
stages, use the MM input as described for the WV5 and take
care that you don't accidentally set your system's line stage to
play the WV9 until you have disconnected the CD player from the MM
For faster results, you might consider using continuous "white
noise," which sounds like radio station static, instead of
music. White noise has much more high frequency
content than music and this will speed the process. CDs of white noise are
used by people with tinnitis and for sleep disorders and can be
ordered on the Internet.
Again, a final
word of caution: if you connect your CD player to the phono stage,
you will be applying a tremendously loud signal to the preamp. It
won't harm the WV (though this technique might fry less-robust preamps), but if you accidentally turn on your power
amps when that signal is being played you could damage your power
amps, speakers and/or hearing.
Your power amps should either be turned off or disconnected altogether. Aria WT
power amps can simply be turned off, as
can most power amps with tube inputs,
but with transistor power amps I'd recommend disconnecting them unless you know
that they are not bothered by 100 volt peak-to-peak signals when
Front Panel Controls
Phono 1 and Phono 2 on the WV5 and WV9, these are the phono stage's MC and MM inputs, respectively. On the WV11 they are line level.
Line 1, 2, and 3 are line-level inputs.
Theater selects the HT (Home Theater) inputs and passes them directly through to the Main Outs without involvement of the volume control and with no alteration to their signal levels. See Home Theater Passthrough for more information.
Line 1, 2, 3, and Theater are not present on the phono-only WV9.
Controls volume level for all inputs except Theater, which is a direct passthrough. There is no volume control on the phono-only WV9.
Standby mutes the outputs and places the WV into standby mode, where the tubes are kept warm but high voltage is shut off. This prolongs tube life by reducing thermal cycling (cold, hot, cold, hot) without current passing through the tubes. This should be your default position whenever you will not be listening. You can select the Theater input for Home Theater passthrough operation even when the WV5 or WV11 is in standby. The front panel lamp will be red in standby.
Mute is used whenever you want to take the WV out of standby. The front panel lamp will pulse violet while the internal voltages are brought up and stabilized. This initialization period is about 60 seconds. When the WV is ready for operation, the lamp will show solid violet. At this time you can take it into Operate mode. The WV can be placed into mute at any time to silence the output.
Operate is for playing music. The WV will unmute and the lamp will change to blue. If you try to unmute the WV before it is fully initialized (solid violet lamp) it will ignore you and not unmute until it is ready.
Rear Panel Layout
All XLR (balanced) connectors on the WV are wired per EIA Standard RS-297-A
Main WV Power Supply Connector
As noted on the chassis, connect to Aria WV Power Supply Only.
Motor Power Supply Connector
Connect to the provided Motor Power Supply (on WVs with optional remote volume control only).
Main Outputs are for connection to power amplifiers. There are three sets of Main Outs: two are unbalanced RCA, and one is fully balanced XLR. The line stage is fully balanced and the RCA output provide the non-inverting signal, meaning they are phase-correct (do not invert phase). The balanced XLR connectors are also wired for correct phase. All the outputs are wired in parallel to ease connections in bi-amp situations. The line stage converts RCA inputs to balanced output, and preserves the balance of Line 3's XLR input, so your power amp can be connected to the balanced or unbalanced outputs and it will work exactly the same regardless of whether you use the XLR or RCA inputs on Line 3.
Use judgment when connecting amplifiers. As I mention in the Associated Components section (below), the WV will sound its best if it is lightly loaded. This means that I recommend that your power amplifier's input impedance not be lower than 50K ohm -- higher is better. Note that the 50K recommended minimum is not a "hard" mininum -- the WV will degrade gracefully if more heavily loaded and continue to sound good, but you won't hear all it can do there will be a reduction of liveliness and dynamic peaks and slam of the sound. The more heavily the WV is loaded, the greater the impact of the loading.
If you connect TWO amplifiers with 50K input impedances to the WV, the combined load will be 25K. Also, two sets of long interconnects mean that the WV is connected to a lot of cable capacitance, which can roll off high frequencies, resulting in a dull sound. Treat the output of the WV with care: the WV is like a finely-tuned high-performance sports car -- don't take it off-roading with a heavy trailer by hooking it to difficult loads.
Pre-Send Outputs provide an unamplified signal of whatever has been selected on the front panel. If you have a CD player connected to the WV's Line 1 input and you select that input on the front panel, the signal not only goes through the volume control into the WV's line stage and out the Main Outs, it is also connected directly to the Pre Send jacks. You can use the Pre Send outputs to connect to the line-level input of a recorder, for example. Be mindful that that this is not a buffered signal and that the inputs of many recorders, as well as the additional interconnects connected to the Pre Send jacks can subtly distort the sound. Also, the inputs of transistor gear may greatly distort the sound if that gear is powered off. So listen carefully after you connect anything to the Pre Send outputs to make sure the WV's sonics have not been compromised.
Special note about outputs on the WV9 Phono Equalizer: Unless specially ordered, the WV9 will not have balanced outputs. The WV9 does not have Pre Send outputs.
HT Input (Pass-thru) These inputs are intended for dual-use (two-channel stereo and surround-sound) systems where the WV is expected to co-exist peacefully with the family's home theater. You can connect your surround-sound processor's left-front (LF) and right-front (RF) outputs to the HT Pass-thru inputs. When the WV is set to Standby, or powered off, or if the front panel selector knob is set to "Theater," the surround sound processor's LF and RF channels pass through the WV unchanged and the darn kids can watch Finding Nemo or whatever. When the WV is active, it takes over the LF and RF speakers. (Note: HT Inputs are not present on the WV9).
Line Inputs 1 and 2 are RCA single-ended. (Note: Line-level inputs not present on the WV9).
Line Input 3 is switchable between RCA and balanced. A switch located between the Line 3 inputs allows you to select between the RCA or XLR connectors. Use only the RCA inputs or the XLR inputs, not both. No harm will come if you have the switch set incorrectly, however the sound may be a bit soft or noisy if you are using the RCA inputs but have the switch set to "BAL," and you won't benefit from a balanced connection if you are using the XLR connectors but set the switch to "RCA." Since the line stage converts RCA inputs to balanced, and preserves the balance of Line 3's XLR input, your power amp can be connected to the balanced or unbalanced outputs and it will work exactly the same regardless of whether you use the XLR or RCA inputs.
All XLR connectors on the WV are wired per EIA Standard RS-297-A (see http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/XLR_connector#XLR3_connectors). (Note: Line level inputs are not present on the WV9).
Phono 1 and Phono 2 are for use with a turntable. Unless otherwise specified at time of order, Phono 1 is for MC cartridges and provides 1:10 stepup, and Phono 2 is for MM cartridges. (Note that for the WV11, these two inputs are line level inputs and cannot be used with a phono cartridge, but the line level output of a standalone phono stage, like a Counterpoint SA-9 or the Aria WV9 [hint hint] can be used.)
MC Load jacks accept loading plugs to set the loading presented to the MC cartridge. Refer to the next section for more information about MC Loading. (Not present on WV11.)
Turntable Ground is for connection to the ground wire which comes from your turntable or tonearm. If this is not connected you will hear a hum from the speaker when using the phono inputs.
Most moving coil cartridges sound and measure best when they are loaded properly. There are no hard and fast rules about what loads sound best with each cartridge. The manufacturer will usually provide a recommended load resistance value, but this is often the value where the cartridge measures the best, and some listeners find that a more dynamic and lively sound can be obtained with a higher value of loading.
Loading of MC cartridges is accomplished in the WV5 and WV9 by inserting RCA plugs which contain resistors into the MC LOAD JACKS on the product rear. If there are no loading plugs inserted (and with the standard Sowter 8055 MC transformer) the load presented to the MC cartridge is 1,000 ohms. By inserting loading plugs with resistors, this value can be lowered. To my ears, "standard" MC cartridges in the 0.4mV range sound very good when loaded to 200 ohm, and I've been told that Linn cartridges sound good with 150 ohm loading.
WV preamps usually ship with one or more pair of loading plugs as requested by the owner. You can also order more loading plugs (or build your own) -- please see the information on this page.
General Information About the Tubes
When replacing tubes:
- Always unplug the WV from AC power or turn off the power switch on the rear of the power supply chassis before poking your fingers down around the tubes.
- Some of the tubes, especially V5 and V6 run quite hot and can burn your fingers so give them plenty of time to cool before handling them.
- The circuit board is intentionally mounted loosely to decouple it from the chassis, and it is only 1/16' of an inch thick, again intentionally. It is normal for it to move with the tube socket as you remove or install tubes. This flexing will not damage the circuit board.
Good-quality tubes will provide 8,000 to 15,000 hours of operation before performance begins to degrade (often indicated by a reduction of volume or a general “softening” of the sound quality, although it's not uncommon for a tube in a low noise stage, such as a phono or line stage, to become noisy well before the end of its rated lifetime).
The WV will not "eat" tubes. All voltages and currents within the WV are well within the manufacturer's ratings for the tube types I recommend. Under no conditions, whether when initializing, in standby, mute, or operate, or shutting down are the tubes placed under any stress. The tubes are kept warm while in standby to prevent thermal cycling which can bring about premature noise, and when powered up from fully-off the tube heaters are brought up very slowly -- watch how slowly the pilot lamp changes from dark to full red illumination when the WV is first plugged in ... that's how slowly the tube filament supply comes up.
I wish I could provide rare old tubes with all Aria WV preamps, but the very best tubes are extremely hard to find. Rather than hold up production and delay shipping, or charge you hundreds of dollars for a tube type which you you might not want, I use new inexpensive tubes. While they may not be the best tubes available, they get the preamp running. In other words, the WV comes with the "house wine"! You and the WV deserve the best you can afford—it’s worth the trouble: the WV preamplifier is so neutral-sounding, it will sound like whatever tubes you put in it, and you will be amazed at the variety of sounds you can get from the WV when you try it with different tubes.
Owners of Aria products can participate in the online members-only Aria WV Tube Group. Sign up for a free Gmail account (www.gmail.com) and send me an email from it. I will add you to the group.
- The phono stage (tube sockets V1 and V2, not present in the WV11) is really designed around the low-noise 6922 type tube. For a general recommendation about tubes worth seeking, click here. Other types of tubes can be used also. Here is a list of alternate tube types worth trying. Regardless of what type of tubes you use, they must be selected for low noise and low microphonics (ringing sounds when tapped) and both test strong (mutual conductance). Suggested requirements for the phono stage tubes: less than 10 microvolts rms of noise per section measured from 400Hz to 20kHz, little or no microphonics, and both halves tested to assure close transconductance. Be certain to obtain an agreement from the tube vendor to let you return the tube if is proves to be too noisy. Matching is really not required, but they should both be the same brand/type tube. No biasing is generally required.
- The line stage tubes (tube sockets V3 and V4, not present in the WV9) can use a wide variety of tube types. See the topic "Setting the Gain of the Line Stage (WV5 and WV11 only) by Changing the Tube Type," in the Internal Adjustments section, below. As with the phono tubes, use tubes selected for low noise, which test strong, and are of the same type/brand.
Suggested requirements for the line stage tubes: less than 16 microvolts rms of noise per section measured from 400Hz to 20kHz, very low microphonics, and both halves tested to assure close transconductance. Matching should not be necessary, and biasing is not necessarily required.
- The power supply tubes (tube sockets V5, V6, V7, V8, found in all WV models) can use a wide variety of tubes. I've written a whole page on this subject, which can be viewed here. These tubes form the heart of the WV's high voltage regulator, the sound of which directly influences the sound of the entire product. They are all found on the main motherboard, there are no tubes in the power supply box which houses the transformer. All tubes for the power supply should test good on a tube tester.
Optional Remote Control
WVs ordered with the optional remote volume control have a small motor attached to the rear of the volume control. Use the up and down buttons on the handheld remote to turn up or down the volume level . None of the other buttons do anything.
Per John Chapman of Bent Audio, which manufactures the remote control system (remote control, receiving electronics, motor drive electronics and motor), the remote does not use any off-the-shelf standard codes that you might find listed with your home theater's remote (he states that he is "... just not that big on the map!"). However, the codes should program fine into any universal learning remote. If you lose your remote, replacement remotes can be purchased from Bent Audio (www.bentaudio.com) for $20 (in 2008 dollars).
Setting the Gain of the Line Stage by Changing the Tube Type (not available in WV9) The gain of the line stage is set by the vacuum tubes used in the V3 and V4 tube sockets as well as by any attenuation resistors installed (see next topic, below). Depending on the tube used, the gain can range from as high as 25dB to as low as 10dB (see www.ariaaudio.com/WVmanual.htm#linegain for tube list and associated gains).
This permits great flexibility in matching the preamp to your system. In a system with "loud" sources, or highly efficient speakers, or power amps with greater than average sensitivity a lower gain tube will permit turning up the volume control to a higher level without the sound level getting too loud. Systems with "quiet" sources, inefficient speakers, or power amps with unusually low gain will benefit from high gain tubes so the volume control does not need to be turned all the way up to achieve satisfactory sound levels.
|When changing tube types in the line stage it is ESSENTIAL that you set the Filament Switch to the correct position. The WV's line stage can use 6-volt and 12-volt tubes. If the switch is set incorrectly, the tube can be damaged, or there will be no output from the WV.
This switch is mounted on the motherboard, about 5 inches back from the front of the preamp, directly behind and below the volume control. It is clearly labeled FIL SWITCH FOR LINE STAGE TUBES. This switch has two positions. Rearward is for 12 volt tubes with 9A type basing, frontward is for 6 volt tubes with 9AJ or 9LP type basing. 9A basing is standard for 12-volt dual triodes such as the ECC99 and 12AU7. 9AJ/LP basing is standard for 6-volt dual triodes such as the 6922.
For a complete list of 9A type tubes which have been tested in the WV's line stage, click here.
For a complete list of 9AJ type tubes which have been tested in the WV's line stage, click here.
Line Stage Attenuation Resistors (not available in WV9) In the event where you need less gain in the line stage than you can obtain by using a lower-gain tube, or prefer using a high gain tube due to its sound quality but wish you could turn the volume control up more than a few clicks, then the gain of the line stage can be reduced by installing attenuation resistors in the provided sockets on the preamp motherboard. The resistors are used to attenuate the signal coming out of the volume control and into the input of the line stage tube. This is the least-offensive method of reducing signal level, the other common one being the addition of feedback. If you wish to apply attenuation, contact me at firstname.lastname@example.org and I'll help you sort it out.
Unless ordered otherwise, no resistors are installed and the line stage is operating at whatever gain the line stage tubes provide.
It is not necessary to bias the tubes after replacement. There are biasing controls on the motherboard and they have been adjusted at the factory for correct tube currents during general setup. No further adjustment is needed. If you do insist on wanting to know how to use them, then set up your audio distortion analyzer (Sound Technology 1700A/B, Kenwood VA-2230A, Audio Precision ATS-2, or similar), make sure it's calibrated, and drop me a note. If you don't possess the right test equipment, you don't want to be messing with the bias.
Please note that all
versions of the WV ship with an inexpensive Brand-X AC Mains cord.
The WV deserves the best power cord you can get, but I don't want to
raise the price just to put in my favorite cord (I recommend "The Music Reference" from Silent Source -- contact me for pricing).
It's just as silly to expect a tube preamp to perform well into a power amp with a low-impedance input as it is to expect a
Ferrari to exhibit any pep if hitched to a heavy trailer. You'll get the most dynamic and transparent sound with power amps that have input impedances greater than 50K ohm.
100K is even better. As Lew Johnson of conrad-johnson wrote, "Most [power] amps range in impedance from 20kohms to 100kohms. A few are as low as 10kohms. Below that is irresponsible." The Aria WT power amps have 470K input
impedance for just this reason and are highly-compatible.
If you insist on using power amps with low input impedance, then I recommend you use a transistor preamp, which is clearly what the
deaf manufacturer had in mind when he chose such a low, tube-hostile value.
Between the WV
and your power amp, the interconnects MUST be shielded. RFI (radio
frequency interference) may result in audible buzzes or other noises
if unshielded or poorly shielded interconnects are used.
You may be
able to get away with using unshielded cables if you are in an environment with little RFI, or if you use a transistorized preamp or a tube preamp which uses massive feedback to lower its output
impedance, but a tube preamp like the WV which has no buffering or feedback to lower the output impedance is highly-susceptible to RFI. This is especially true when using the
single-ended (RCA) outputs on the WV. The balanced outputs (WV5 and
WV11, optional on the WV9) are less-susceptible to interference, but
If you really really really want to use unshielded interconnects, then I recommend no
more than 1 meter between the WV and the power amp. If you still pick up RFI then either give up the WV or give up the cables. I've done all
I can do for you.
interconnects that go between the WV and your source products (CD
player, etc.) can be shielded or unshielded, check the source
component manufacturer's recommendation.
Spiking the Preamplifier
There are four rubber feet under each chassis intended to prevent marring of furniture or other soft surfaces. But using spikes or other aftermarket feet may improve the sound by providing decoupling from vibrations in the surface upon which it is resting. Simply unscrew the rubber feet and screw the aftermarket feet into the 1/4-20 threaded holes. Take care that the threaded portion does not extend more than 1/8'' (3mm) into the chassis.
All WV models come with our Lifetime Warranty.
In the event that you need to pack your WV for shipping, use the original packing materials and pack the WV as shown:
|(Above) Two foam shipping blocks which must be removed before use, and installed before shipping. The Motor Block is only present on XL versions with remote controls, or standard WVs which have upgraded to the DACT attenuator with remote. Standard WVs and XL WVs without remotes do not have the Motor Block. Do not lose these blocks as they are required for shipping.
|(Above) Closeup of the shipping blocks.
|(Above) Step 1. Place the wrapped WV into the crate. The knobs must fit into the gap between two of the foam corner pieces. There is a foam piece on the floor of the box, under the WV (not visible).
|(Above) Step 2. Next insert the top foam piece, and insert the wrapped Power Supply chassis into the pocket. Note that the power supply umbilical cord comes out through the gap in the foam.
|(Above) Step 3. The plug on the end of the power supply umbilical must be wrapped in a bag to prevent it from damage or from damaging other pieces.
|(Above) Step 4. Place the three gray foam pieces around the power supply cradle.
|(Above) Step 5. The box contains tools and other small parts. The MC loading plugs (if ordered) are in bags. The AC Mains cord is wrapped in plastic.
|(Above) Step 6. The box, MC loading plugs, and AC Mains cord pack in the same opening where the power supply umbilical is located.
|(Above) All packed and ready for the top to be screwed in place.